Without battery it will always fire on the fastest speed, 1/200.
It should accept voltages between 3 and 6 V, the plus connector is the upper one.
So far the infos I found.
A luster terminal fits precisely on the connectors, I use 3 AAA cells,
4,5 V are giving very pecise shutter times. And 3 1,2 V rechargable
cells would be enough, too.
Maybe I will later replace the rubber band 😉
3D printing is a tool I use quiete often, eg. lensboards, lenscaps, spare parts,…
First I used Googles sketchup, but since it got online only, it lost me due to restrictions
Mysoftware as now is freecad, fusion 360 (free) , openscad (t seems difficult at first but is fun to use, especially as you can throw .stl files in the editor window and at once get a solid form to work on)
So usually I throw the .stl file in openscad, define the path as a module and can work on it.
Like so:
module linhoflb(scale){
import("D:/Dropbox/linhof_board_blank.stl");
}
difference(){
linhoflb(1);
translate([265,175,0])
cylinder(h=6,d1=50,d2=50);
}
And you get this:
(to get the focal lenghtof the oldtimers : projekt a light source on a paper and measure the lens distance to the paper when picture is sharp – the further away the light source the better (sun ?
You load the film in daylight, reel it in, cut it all in the tank.
Using 200 ml of developer and fixer for a film.
I get great results using the times for 1 minute agitation and taking 15% off.
If the tank is leaking usually you have to reseal the thermometer plug, it is really easy to diy.
I am impressed how easy you develop a roll without any darkroom or bag.