I still have to follow up.
Depending on the camera it is interesting to photograph objects under UV light.
I still have to follow up.
Depending on the camera it is interesting to photograph objects under UV light.
Photographic images are developed on natural leaves through the action of photosynthesis.
The photo-bleaching Chlorophyll Processes works due to the pigments in leaves (Chlorophyll-a) and flowers and vegetables (Flavonoids) respectively.
Light intensity and time of year as well as the natural differences in the concentration of these pigments between species and specimens will have an effect on the results.
Place the leaf and transparency in a frame and then out into the sun.
I found at first just a slight color change of the leaves before them drying out and dying. Test different leaves. Patience.
High light intensity and low atmospheric humidity cause the leaf to dry much faster and consequently, the mid-tones are less or not at all visible.
So it’s important to control the exposure.
f you want to keep the leaf from drying out and dying you’ll need to provide water. You can position the leaf so that the stem hangs out. This will allow you to secure a small bag of water to the stem.
The process can take anywhere from 24hrs – weeks
Preservation of the leaves
The first step is to immerse our leaf for 20 minutes in alcohol to facilitate the penetration of the copper sulfate into the chlorophyll’s magnesium molecule.
This would be the equivalent to the “stop bath” in analogue photography.
I use a proportion of 15% copper sulphate in distilled water and I immerse the leaf for five minutes.
Third step. Immerse the leaf for 10 – 15 minutes in running water
Fourth step. Drying. Put it between two sheets of thick cardboard with a lot of weight on them so that the leaf stay flat
Fifth Step. Waxing the leaf. I have not found the optimal wax yet.
I really like the blue colors of cyanotypes.
I use (and here are the german names)
The solutions, once mixed 1:1 are UV sensitive (300nm). I coat the paper under red light or weak daylight.
Under UV-Light the Eisen(III) im Ammoniumeisen(III)-citrat is reduced to Eisen(II):
Fe3+ + e– -> Fe2+
In the waterbath this goes in solution and meets the Kaliumhexacyanoferrat, building the not water solubale and nice Prussian Blue („Berliner Blau“), a deep blue.
4 Fe3+ + 3 [Fe(CN)6]4- -> Fe4[Fe(CN)6]3
I use aquarell paper to coat it with the solution, dry it in the dark.
Foto Paper (inkjet) works well, too. The „resolution“ is better. But I like the texture of the aquarell paper much more than the smooth (imho boring) perfection of the inkjet „paper“.
I prefer the weight of 300g or more for my paper.
The choose of paper is one of the most important things to get your desired outcome.
Wood is working mostly fine.
I need about 3min to 5min of sunshine exposure in the summer, 10 min in the evening.
Cloudy sky is very variable…
If you use UV light sources you have to test them. I need abaout 30 min with a 365nm 50W UV light source at 25 cm distance, depending on paper, negative and solution.
It is working better than my previous tried 395nm source.
Some guys stop the reaction with a bit of citric acid (Zitronensäure) in a short stopbath, i do not.
The blue builds with time and darkens considerably, you can quicken the reaction with a bit of H2O2 Hydrogen peroxid (Wasserstoffperoxid) in the water. I just wait while the paper is drying.
Developing in pure vinegear gives more tonal range.
The paper needs than to be rinsed or bathed in water about 5 min.
If the prints lighten up over months or years you can store them in the dark to regenerate or give them a short bath in thin Hydrogen peroxid solution to freshen the blue color up.
I used a rather old (expired 1969) Kodak Pro-X 125 film in an 1929 build voigtländer bessa 6×9 camera.
Sunny sixteen rule, 1/100 sec, 11.
The film was stored since the early 60´s in camera, in a rooftop storage in dirty environment.
Developed in HC 110 1:31 7min at 20 C I got surprisingly nice results.
A problem is that nearly all new IP Cameras try to sell a cloud service to get the bought functionality.
My old foscam outdoor is nearly inaccessible from a web browser after the latest update.
I now use motioneyeos on a raspi and/or the synology surv.station to manage the cameras instead of the expensive cloud or instead of multiple apps on my phone.
I had some trouble to send e-mails via smtp.
The solution is to go to your google account, security and allow not so secure apps. Done.
in the last weeks to friends of mine did the switch to linux.
I promised to list the programs/extensions I use on my ubuntu laptop.
Here they are, in no specific order.
I switched to Kubuntu on the Dell laptop. The gnome desktop is not flexible enough for me. KDE is nice, there is just one glitch I do not understand: Only in Kubuntu installing .deb packages with apt or doubleklick I got frequently a "Not resolved dependencies" error. I was in despair, but then I read this error is a fake, I should use dpkg -i to install. And... that did it. Why??? And another problem I did not see in Ubuntu: The NAS smb was shown in Nautilus, but not in Dolphin... My Ubuntu and / (a few of them) Kubuntu mods: gnome extensions applications menue extension alphabetical app grid extension (jiggle) espanso / autokey midnight commander (mc) nmap Gaucho super tux cart ;-) Terminator btop iftop Gnome gmail Gnome Sushi dock to panel Tiling Assistant Okular Dokumentenviewer / Kate XN View shotcut darktable openscad freetuxtv network stats extension (executor extension) (ettercap) (etherape) stacer google earth view wallpaper Google earth get -O google-earth64.deb http://dl.google.com/dl/earth/client/current/google-earth-stable_current_amd64.deb sudo dpkg -i google-earth64.deb sudo apt-get -f install; rm google-earth64.deb nvidea ubuntu-drivers autoinstall Fingerprint reader Dell laptop: echo " deb http://dell.archive.canonical.com/updates/ focal-dell public deb http://dell.archive.canonical.com/updates/ focal-oem public deb http://dell.archive.canonical.com/updates/ focal-somerville public deb http://dell.archive.canonical.com/updates/ focal-somerville-melisa public" | \ sudo tee -a /etc/apt/sources.list.d/focal-dell.list # Add the Dmacbook airell repository key (F9FDA6BED73CDC22) to apt sudo apt-key adv --keyserver keyserver.ubuntu.com --recv-keys F9FDA6BED73CDC22 sudo apt update # Install fingerprint reader packages sudo apt install -y \ oem-somerville-melisa-meta \ oem-somerville-meta \ libfprint-2-tod1-goodix \ tlp-config reboot, dann User, Authent… und Fingerprint Macbook Air I tried Fedora: Bad WiFi and difficult to install propietory drivers. I tried Arch and Manjero: Very flaky and slow WiFi with all tested drivers. I tried Parrot OS: Nice, but the touchpad was difficult to use, jumpy, and the fonts not so readable.. I tried Linux Mint: Splendid WiFi but no smt devices detected, Network detection crashed. Reinstall...the same problem. No one could help me in the groups, even the specialist google had no solutions. Pop OS: Worse. Programs got stuck alarmingly often, bad wifi and crashes of fontmanager every time.. I tried Ubuntu: Everything worked out of the box. Bravo! I switched to Kubuntu: Everything working! Great. (Just the same apt dependencies error as described above) BTW, I had to install the german gui for Libreoffice by myself, it defaulted to English. sudo apt install libreoffice-help-de sudo apt install libreoffice-l10n-de Than I had to set the screen manually to 1600x900, using an entry in ~\.profiles. xrandr It outputs current screen resolution as well as all available solutions. All I needed here is the display device name, in my case, it’s eDP-1. cvt 1600 900 Replace 1600 900 (1600X900 in my case) in the command to your desired screen resolution. Copy the Modeline, and run command to add new mode: sudo xrandr --newmode "1600x900_60.00" 118.25 1600 1696 1856 2112 900 903 908 934 -hsync +vsync Now add the new created mode for your display device: sudo xrandr --addmode eDP-1 "1600x900_60.00" Finally Apply the new resolution in the Display settings To make Ubuntu remember the new created screen resolution at next start, you have to edit the .profile via command: sudo nano) ~/.profile And insert at the end: xrandr --newmode "1600x900_60.00" 118.25 1600 1696 1856 2112 900 903 908 934 -hsync +vsync xrandr --addmode eDP-1 "1600x900_60.00" ...more to come as the journey goes on...
After printing my lensboards, lenscaps and other needed items my craftbot printer sadly died on me.
The new one is a Anycubic Vyper which is printing really nice.
For my rather simple needs I construct with Openascad and slice with Cura.
Updating the vyper was fairly easy, you first update the mainboard with inserting the sd card.
But than (!) you update the display with a micro sd card. This card only works if it is fat32 4096 bit formatted, I used an old 8Gb card.
A fast and convenient way to automate some tasks is to create an „bad usb“ working as a HID (human interface device), typing in commands for you. eg. doing a backup or starting apps you need.
I did this on an rapberry pico.
Now your Raspberry pi pico will be the CircuitPython.
OK, now load a payload on the raspi and watch.
But: it works as an englisah (US) HID, on a german language PC it will not work.
So I did this:
py zip, named
For a language de, copy the following files from the zip’s
lib folder to the
lib directory of the board.
DO NOT modify the adafruit_hid directory. Your files go directly in
DO NOT change the names or extensions of the files. Just pick the right ones.
LANG with the letters for your language of choice.
At the start of the code.py replace these lines:
from adafruit_hid.keyboard_layout_us import KeyboardLayoutUS from adafruit_hid.keycode import Keycode
With this lines:
from keyboard_layout_win_de import KeyboardLayout from keycode_win_de import Keycode
And also replace this line:
layout = KeyboardLayoutUS(kbd)
With this line:
layout = KeyboardLayout(kbd)
Now — you have a ducky for a german pc…
HC 110 seems to have a upswept curve.
|Dilution from EUROPEAN CONCENTRATE (500 1466)||240 mL|
(1 roll, steel tank)
(1 roll, plastic tank)
(2 rolls, steel tank)
(2 rolls, plastic tank)
|A (1:4)||48 mL||60 mL||96 mL||120 mL|
|B (1:9)||24 mL||30 mL||48 mL||60 mL|
|C (1:5.25)||38.5 mL||48 mL||77 mL||96 mL|
|D (1:11.5)||21 mL||26 mL||38.5 mL||52 mL|
|E (1:14)||16 mL||20 mL||32 mL||40 mL|
|F (1:24)||9.6 mL*||12 mL*||19 mL||24 mL|
|G (1:36.5)||6.4 mL*||8 mL*||12.8 mL*||16 mL*|
|H (1:19)||12 mL*||15 mL*||24 mL||30 mL|
*Be sure to use at least 19.2 mL of European concentrate per 135-36 or 120 roll of film, even if this requires you to put more than the usual amount of liquid in the tank.
Dilutions G and H are unofficial — not described in any Kodak publications. See „Unusual Uses“ below. I use Dilution H as a substitute for Dilution B to give twice the development time.
Dilutions C, D, and E seem to have been designed to match, respectively, the developing times of DK-50, DK-50 1:1, and DK-50 1:2 with sheet film (Carroll, Photographic Lab Handbook, 1979).
With this developer, development time is roughly proportional to dilution. Thus:
|Dilution D||Develop 25% longer than with Dilution B|
|Dilution E||Develop 50% longer than with Dilution B|
|Dilution F||Develop 2.5 times as long as with Dilution B|
I bought mine by Fotoimpex online and got the original concentrate, not the „european“ one.
A test Foma 100 in solution B, 6 minutes, 21C and 10sec every min agitation gave me good results.
Here is a good summary:
This is a nice film for its price.
The recirprocity is really „bad“, but I still like it, even for my pinhole shots if there is some light.
100 very good with Tmax and Rodinal, my favorite Foma film in all formats. Results in HC110 (6 min, sol B, 21 C) were also good.
200 don t like this film, never used it
400 rather grainy
320 retro I find the film not sharp enough